Eight-thousander
![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/51/Eight_Thousanders_Map.png/220px-Eight_Thousanders_Map.png)
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in an altitude known as the death zone.
From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited by expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for every three summiters), followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (one for every six to seven summiters).
The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.
Issues with false summits (e.g. Cho Oyu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri), or separated dual summits (e.g. Shishapangma and Manaslu), have led to disputed claims of ascents.[1] In 2022, after several years of research, a team of experts reported that they could only confirm evidence that three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja, had stood on the true geographic summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.[2]
Climbing history
[edit]First ascents
[edit]![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/Flight_over_himalaya_annotated.jpg/300px-Flight_over_himalaya_annotated.jpg)
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.[3]
The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.[4] Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).[5]
The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;[6] all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.[7] The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.[8]
Only two climbers have completed more than one first ascent of an eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first ascent of one of the eight-thousanders. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.[7] Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),[9] while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).[7]
All 14
[edit]![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2f/Comparison_of_highest_mountains.svg/300px-Comparison_of_highest_mountains.svg.png)
![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/30_highest_peaks_with_more_than_500m_prominence.png/300px-30_highest_peaks_with_more_than_500m_prominence.png)
On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.[7] Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest and on no other eight-thousander[7]).[11]
On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.[12] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[13][14]
The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet on 11 May 2017.[15][16] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.[16][17]
On 23 May 2023, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 28th time (a record for Everest), becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 38 times.[18] In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.[19] He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.[20]
On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen.[21][22][23] On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.[24][25]
Deadliest
[edit]Eight thousander |
From 1950 to March 2012[27] | Climber death rate [28][29][a] | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Total ascents[b] |
Total deaths[c] |
Deaths as % of ascents[d] | ||
Everest | 5656 | 223 | 3.9% | 1.52% |
K2 | 283 | 40 | 14.1% | 3.00% |
Lhotse | 461 | 13 | 2.8% | 1.03% |
Makalu | 361 | 31 | 8.6% | 1.63% |
Cho Oyu | 3138 | 44 | 1.4% | 0.64% |
Dhaulagiri I | 448 | 69 | 15.4% | 2.94% |
Manaslu | 661 | 65 | 9.8% | 2.77% |
Nanga Parbat | 335 | 68 | 20.3% | –[e] |
Annapurna I | 191 | 61 | 31.9% | 4.05% |
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) |
334 | 29 | 8.7% | –[e] |
Broad Peak | 404 | 21 | 5.2% | –[e] |
Gasherbrum II | 930 | 21 | 2.3% | –[e] |
Kangchenjunga | 243 | 40 | 16% | 3.00% |
Shishapangma | 302 | 25 | 8.3% |
The eight-thousanders are the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate) is high.[31] Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.[30][32]
- Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of successful climbers summiting to total deaths[c] on the mountain over a given period.[30] The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%.[33] Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%).[30] Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain (27.2%), followed by K2 (22.8%), Nanga Parbat (20.75%), Kangchenjunga (15%), and Dhaulagiri (13.5%).[32][31] Cho Oyu was the safest at 1.4%.[30][32]
- Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit.[28] In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below).[28] The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat.[28] HDB estimates the probability of death for a climber attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.[28]
The tables from the HDB for eight-thousanders also show that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.[28]
List of first ascents
[edit]From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).
Mountain[26] | First ascent[26] | First winter ascent[26] | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Name | Height[34] | Prom.[34] | Country | Date | Summiter(s) | Date | Summiter(s) |
Everest | 8,849 m (29,032 ft)[35] |
8,849 m (29,032 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
29 May 1953 | ![]() |
17 February 1980 |
![]() ![]() |
K2 | 8,611 m (28,251 ft) |
4,020 m (13,190 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
31 July 1954 | ![]() ![]() |
16 January 2021[8] | ![]() ![]()
|
Kangchenjunga | 8,586 m (28,169 ft) |
3,922 m (12,867 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
25 May 1955 | ![]() ![]() on British expedition |
11 January 1986 | ![]() ![]() |
Lhotse | 8,516 m (27,940 ft) |
610 m (2,000 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
18 May 1956 | ![]() ![]() |
31 December 1988 | ![]() |
Makalu | 8,485 m (27,838 ft) |
2,378 m (7,802 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
15 May 1955 | ![]() ![]() on French expedition |
9 February 2009 | ![]() ![]() |
Cho Oyu | 8,188 m (26,864 ft) |
2,344 m (7,690 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
19 October 1954 | ![]() ![]() ![]() |
12 February 1985 | ![]() ![]() |
Dhaulagiri I | 8,167 m (26,795 ft) |
3,357 m (11,014 ft) |
![]() |
13 May 1960 | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
21 January 1985 | ![]() ![]() |
Manaslu | 8,163 m (26,781 ft) |
3,092 m (10,144 ft) |
![]() |
9 May 1956 | ![]() ![]() |
12 January 1984 | ![]() ![]() |
Nanga Parbat | 8,125 m (26,657 ft) |
4,608 m (15,118 ft) |
![]() |
3 July 1953 | ![]() on German–Austrian expedition |
26 February 2016 | ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Annapurna I | 8,091 m (26,545 ft) |
2,984 m (9,790 ft) |
![]() |
3 June 1950 | ![]() ![]() |
3 February 1987 | ![]() ![]() |
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) |
8,080 m (26,510 ft) |
2,155 m (7,070 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
5 July 1958 | ![]() ![]() |
9 March 2012 | ![]() ![]() |
Broad Peak | 8,051 m (26,414 ft) |
1,701 m (5,581 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
9 June 1957 | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
5 March 2013 | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Gasherbrum II | 8,034 m (26,358 ft) |
1,524 m (5,000 ft) |
![]() ![]() |
7 July 1956 | ![]() ![]() ![]() |
2 February 2011 | ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Shishapangma | 8,027 m (26,335 ft) |
2,897 m (9,505 ft) |
![]() |
2 May 1964 | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
14 January 2005 | ![]() ![]() |
List of climbers of all 14
[edit]There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.
Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.[1][42]
Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,[43] is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas.[44][45] Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,[46] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.[1][42][47]
Verified ascents
[edit]The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.
Order | Order (No O2) |
Name | Period climbing eight-thousanders |
Born | Age | Nationality |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | Reinhold Messner | 1970–1986 | 1944 | 42 | ![]() |
2 | Jerzy Kukuczka | 1979–1987 | 1948 | 39 | ![]() | |
3 | 2 | Erhard Loretan | 1982–1995 | 1959 | 36 | ![]() |
4 | [49] | Carlos Carsolio | 1985–1996 | 1962 | 33 | ![]() |
5 | Krzysztof Wielicki | 1980–1996 | 1950 | 46 | ![]() | |
6 | 3 | Juanito Oiarzabal | 1985–1999 | 1956 | 43 | ![]() |
7 | Sergio Martini | 1983–2000 | 1949 | 51 | ![]() | |
8 | Park Young-seok | 1993–2001 | 1963 | 38 | ![]() | |
9 | Um Hong-gil | 1988–2001 | 1960[50] | 40 | ![]() | |
10 | 4 | Alberto Iñurrategi | 1991–2002[51] | 1968 | 33 | ![]() |
11 | Han Wang-yong | 1994–2003 | 1966 | 37 | ![]() | |
12 | 5[52] | Ed Viesturs | 1989–2005 | 1959 | 46 | ![]() |
13 | 6[53][54][55] | Silvio Mondinelli | 1993–2007 | 1958 | 49 | ![]() |
14 | 7[56] | Iván Vallejo | 1997–2008 | 1959 | 49 | ![]() |
15 | 8[57] | Denis Urubko | 2000–2009 | 1973 | 35 | ![]() |
16 | Ralf Dujmovits | 1990–2009 | 1961[58] | 47 | ![]() | |
17[59] | 9[60] | Veikka Gustafsson | 1993–2009 | 1968 | 41 | ![]() |
18[61] | Andrew Lock | 1993–2009 | 1961[62] | 48 | ![]() | |
19 | 10 | João Garcia | 1993–2010 | 1967 | 43 | ![]() |
20[63] | Piotr Pustelnik | 1990–2010 | 1951 | 58 | ![]() | |
21[64] | Edurne Pasaban | 2001–2010 | 1973 | 36 | ![]() | |
22[65] | Abele Blanc | 1992–2011[66][67] | 1954 | 56 | ![]() | |
23 | Mingma Sherpa | 2000–2011[66] | 1978 | 33 | ![]() | |
24 | 11 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner | 1998–2011[66] | 1970 | 40 | ![]() |
25 | Vassily Pivtsov | 2001–2011[66] | 1975 | 36 | ![]() | |
26 | 12 | Maxut Zhumayev | 2001–2011[66] | 1977 | 34 | ![]() |
27 | Kim Jae-soo | 2000–2011[66] | 1961 | 50 | ![]() | |
28[68] | 13 | Mario Panzeri | 1988–2012 | 1964 | 48 | ![]() |
29[69] | Hirotaka Takeuchi | 1995–2012[69] | 1971 | 41 | ![]() | |
30 | Chhang Dawa Sherpa | 2001–2013[66] | 1982 | 30 | ![]() | |
31 | 14 | Kim Chang-ho | 2005–2013[66] | 1970 | 43 | ![]() |
32 | Jorge Egocheaga | 2002–2014[70] | 1968 | 45 | ![]() | |
33 | 15 | Radek Jaroš | 1998–2014[66] | 1964 | 50 | ![]() |
34/35[71] | 16/17[71] | Nives Meroi | 1998–2017[72][73] | 1961 | 55 | ![]() |
34/35[71] | 16/17[71] | Romano Benet | 1998–2017[72][73][74] | 1962 | 55 | ![]() ![]() |
36 | Peter Hámor | 1998–2017[75][76][77] | 1964 | 52 | ![]() | |
37 | 18 | Azim Gheychisaz | 2008–2017[78] | 1981 | 37 | ![]() |
38 | Ferran Latorre | 1999–2017[79] | 1970 | 46 | ![]() | |
39 | 19 | Òscar Cadiach | 1984–2017[80] | 1952 | 64 | ![]() |
40 | Kim Mi-gon | 2000–2018[81][82] | 1973 | 45 | ![]() | |
41 | Sanu Sherpa | 2006–2019[83] | 1975 | 44 | ![]() | |
42 | Nirmal Purja | 2014–2019[23][84][f] | 1983 | 36 | ![]() | |
43 | Mingma Gyabu Sherpa | 2010–2019[85][86] | 1989 | 30 | ![]() | |
44 | Kim Hong-bin | 2006–2021[87][88][89] | 1964 | 57 | ![]() | |
45 | Nima Gyalzen Sherpa | 2004–2022[90][91] | 1985 | 37 | ![]() | |
46 | Dong Hong Juan | 2015–2023[92][93] | 1981 | 42 | ![]() | |
47 | Kristin Harila | 2021–2023[94][95] | 1986 | 37 | ![]() | |
48 | Sophie Lavaud | 2012–2023[96][97][98][99] | 1968 | 55 | ![]() ![]() ![]() | |
49 | Tunç Fındık | 2001–2023[98][99] | 1972 | 51 | ![]() | |
50 | Tenjen Lama Sherpa | 2016–2023[24][25][100] | 35[101] | ![]() | ||
51 | Gelje Sherpa | 2017–2023[102][103][104] | 1992[102] | 30 | ![]() | |
52 | Chris Warner | 1999–2023[105] | 1965 | 58 | ![]() | |
53 | 20 | Marco Camandona | 2000-2024[106][107] | 1970 | 54 | ![]() |
Disputed ascents
[edit]Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).[44][45] The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.[1][42]
Name and details | Period climbing eight-thousanders |
Born | Age | Nationality |
---|---|---|---|---|
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997)[108] His partner Sergio Martini reclimbed Lhotse in 2000 to verify his 14, see above. |
1983–1998 | 1952 | 46 | ![]() |
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[109][110] Hinkes rejected Hawley's decision to "unrecognise" his ascent, see "Cho Oyu dispute". |
1987–2005 | 1954 | 53 | ![]() |
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) 2000, Broad Peak 1995[111][112])[113][114] As he did not claim the main summit of Shishapangma, this status is unlikely to change. |
1993–2004 (deceased) |
1953 | 49 | ![]() |
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)[115][116][117] As the potential first female climber of all 14, this dispute was followed internationally.[116] |
1997–2010 | 1966 | 44 | ![]() |
Carlos Pauner (Shishapangma 2012)[118] Pauner acknowledged his uncertainty as it was dark; said he might reclimb.[119] |
2001–2013 | 1963 | 50 | ![]() |
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)[120][121][122] Suspected the 2018 Chinese Shishapangma expedition stopped at central summit. |
2000–2018 | 1964 | 54 | ![]() |
Verification issues
[edit]A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.[1][42]
Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak).[123][124] Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge.[1][125] When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.[126][1]
In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".[1] In June 2021, Australian climber Damien Gildea wrote an article in the American Alpine Journal on the work that Jurgalski and a team of international experts were doing in this area, including publishing detailed surveys of the problem summits using data from the German Aerospace Center.[42]
In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, Bob Schelfhout Aubertijn, and Thaneswar Guragai). According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so.[2] Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen.[2] Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect.[2] The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".[2]
Proposed expansion
[edit]In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest.[127] To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander.[128] See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousanders.
In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new 8,000 m (26,247 ft)-plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition.[128] The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above 60 m (197 ft), but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of 600 m (1,969 ft) (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at 610 metres (2,001 ft)).[129][130] Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of 181 metres (594 ft), would even meet the 150 metres (492 ft) prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.[129] The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of 30 m (98 ft),[g] amongst other criteria; the logic being that if 30 m (98 ft) worked for 4,000 m (13,123 ft) summits, then 60 m (197 ft) is proportional for 8,000 m (26,247 ft) summits.[131]
As of April 2024[update], there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.
Proposed new eight-thousander | Height (m) |
Prominence (m) |
Dominance (Prom / Height) as a %[133] |
Dominance classification[133] |
---|---|---|---|---|
Broad Peak Central | 8011 | 181 | 2.26 | B2 |
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang) | 8505 | 135 | 1.59 | C1 |
Kangchenjunga S-Peak | 8476 | 116 | 1.37 | C2 |
Kangchenjunga C-Peak | 8473 | 63 | 0.74 | C2 |
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle) | 8410 | 65 | 0.77 | C2 |
Lhotse Shar | 8382 | 72 | 0.86 | C2 |
K 2 SW-Peak | 8580 | 30 | 0.35 | D1 |
Lhotse C-Peak II | 8372 | 37 | 0.44 | D1 |
Everest W-Peak | 8296 | 30 | 0.36 | D1 |
Yalung Kang Shoulder | 8200 | 40 | 0.49 | D1 |
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak | 8150 | 30 | 0.37 | D1 |
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge) | 8134 | 35 | 0.43 | D1 |
Annapurna C-Peak | 8051 | 49 | 0.61 | D1 |
Nanga Parbat S-Peak | 8042 | 30 | 0.37 | D1 |
Annapurna E-Peak | 8026 | 65 | 0.81 | C2 |
Shisha Pangma C-Peak | 8008 | 30 | 0.37 | D1 |
Everest NE-Shoulder | 8423 | 19 | 0.23 | D2 |
Everest NE-Pinnacle III | 8383 | 13 | 0.16 | D2 |
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III | 8327 | 10 | 0.12 | D2 |
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II | 8307 | 12 | 0.14 | D2 |
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I | 8290 | 10 | 0.12 | D2 |
Everest NE-Pinnacle II | 8282 | 25 | 0.30 | D2 |
Gallery
[edit]-
No. 1 – Mount Everest
-
No. 2 – K2
-
No. 3 – Kangchenjunga
-
No. 4 – Lhotse
-
No. 5 – Makalu
-
No. 6 – Cho Oyu
-
No. 7 – Dhaulagiri
-
No. 8 – Manaslu
-
No. 9 – Nanga Parbat
-
No. 10 – Annapurna
-
No. 11 – Gasherbrum I
-
No. 12 – Broad Peak
-
No. 13 – Gasherbrum II
-
No. 14 – Shishapangma
See also
[edit]- List of deaths on eight-thousanders
- List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
- List of ski descents of eight-thousanders
- Three Poles Challenge, the North Pole, the South Pole, and Mount Everest
- Explorers Grand Slam, the North Pole, the South Pole, and the Seven Summits
- Volcanic Seven Summits, the highest volcanos on each continent
- Fourteener, peak with at least 14,000 ft. elevation
- List of mountains by elevation
Notes
[edit]- ^ Per The Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the Climber (or Member) Death Rate is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp, for 1950 to 2009, and is closer to a true probability of death; the data is only for Nepalese Himalaya. Summary tables from the HDB report for all mountains above 8,000 metres, imply that the death rate for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period.[28]
- ^ As recorded by Eberhard Jurgalski
- ^ a b As recorded by Eberhard Jurgalski and being any death (climber or other) above Base Camp.[30]
- ^ This should not be mistaken as being a death rate; it does not imply a probability of death for a climber attempting to climb an eight-thousander as it includes all deaths from all activities undertaken above base camp (e.g. training or reconnaissance trips, camp stocking activities by porters who will not be summiting the mountain, rescue attempts etc.). Thus it compares deaths from the larger group of people who were, and were not, making a summit attempt, with the smaller group who were making a summit attempt. While it is not a probability, the statistic does reflect the ratio of people who died above base camp for each climber who summited.
- ^ a b c d Data is not available for the Karakoram Himalayas
- ^ Nirmal Purja climbed all fourteen 8,000m peaks between April 2019 and October 2019, but climbed his first, Dhaulagiri, in 2014.
- ^ The UIAA main list also includes summits that have a prominence far lower than 30 metres.
References
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A Nepali mountaineer and former British Marine has climbed the world's tallest 14 peaks in six months - beating an earlier record of almost eight years.
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On October 29th, Nirmal Purja Magar announced via Instagram that he had summited China's Shishapangma. This marked the fourteenth 8,000-meter peak he had climbed in seven months and the completion of an extraordinary project to speed climb the world's tallest mountains in rapid succession.
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- ^ a b c "DAILY CHART: Stairway to heaven, how deadly are the world's highest mountains?". The Economist. 29 March 2013.
For every three thrill-seekers that make it safely up and down Annapurna I, one dies trying, according to data from Eberhard Jurgalski of website 8000ers.com, collected in his forthcoming book "On Top of the World: The New Millennium", co-authored by Richard Sale.
- ^ a b c d e f g Elizabeth Hawley; Richard Sailsbury (2011). "The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya" (PDF). p. 129.
Table D-3: Deaths for peaks with more than 750 members above base camp from 1950–2009
- ^ "Himalayan Death Tolls". The Washington Post. 24 April 2014.
- ^ a b c d e Eberhard Jurgalski [in German]. "Fatalities tables". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018.
Included are only fatalities from, at or above BC or caused from there. Fatalities on approach or return marches are not listed.
- ^ a b Armstrong, Martin (10 December 2021). "Deadly Peaks". Statista. Retrieved 13 December 2021.
- ^ a b c Whitman, Mark (22 December 2020). "Eight Thousanders – The Complete 8000ers Guide". MountainIQ. Retrieved 13 December 2021.
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- ^ a b PeakBagger: World 8000–metre Peaks
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- ^ [37][38][39]
- ^ Harding, Luke (13 July 2000). "Climbers banned from sacred peak". the Guardian. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
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- ^ Elizabeth Hawley; Richard Salisbury (2018). "The Himalayan Database, The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley". The Himalayan Database.
- ^ a b If a mountaineer wants worldwide recognition that they have reached the summit of some of the most formidable mountains in the world, they will need to get the approval of Elizabeth Hawley."Elizabeth Hawley, unrivalled Himalayan record keeper". BBC News. 29 August 2010.
- ^ a b "Elizabeth Hawley, Who Chronicled Everest Treks, Dies at 94". The New York Times. 26 January 2018.
- ^ "High Altitude Mountaineering statistics". AdventureStats.com. 2018.
- ^ "Climbers who have ascended to the summits of all of the world's 14 mountains over 8000 metres". 8000ers.com (Eberhard Jurgalski). 2018.
- ^ Eberhard Jurgalski [in German] (26 May 2012). "Climbers – First 14". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
- ^ Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
- ^ EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44). "Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak". Archived from the original on 21 June 2009. Retrieved 30 November 2008.
{{cite web}}
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...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen.
- ^ Mounteverest.net. "The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse". Archived from the original on 28 October 2008. Retrieved 30 November 2008.
Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers – becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen.
- ^
"The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 30 November 2008.
13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen.
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Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
- ^ "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. Archived from the original on 11 May 2008. Retrieved 30 November 2008.
...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
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- ^ "Summit 8000 – Andrew Lock's quest to climb all fourteen of the highest mountains in the world". Andrew-lock.com. Archived from the original on 5 March 2016. Retrieved 14 April 2010.
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- ^ "Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna – bags the 14x8000ers!". Explorersweb.com. Archived from the original on 10 March 2016. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
- ^ "Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits – completes the 14x800ers". Explorersweb.com. Archived from the original on 18 April 2016. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
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- ^ "Mario Panzeri: sono in cima! E finalmente sono 14 ottomila". Montagna.tv. Archived from the original on 2 November 2013. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
- ^ a b "日本人初の快挙、8000m峰14座登頂 竹内洋岳". Nikkei.com. 26 May 2012. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
- ^ "Climbers – First 14". 8000ers.com. 13 August 2014. Retrieved 13 August 2014.
- ^ a b c d Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position
- ^ a b "Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000er". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 11 May 2017.
- ^ a b "Nives Meroi in Roman Benet preplezala 14 osemtisočakov". Sta.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved 11 May 2017.
- ^ "Slovenec s 15. osemtisočaka". Delo.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved 11 May 2017.
- ^ "Pokoril všetky osemtisícovky". skrsi.rtvs.sk. 16 May 2017. Retrieved 17 May 2017.
- ^ "È vetta per Peter Hamor. Con il Dhaulagiri sono 14 anche per lui" (in Italian). www.montagna.tv. 15 May 2017. Retrieved 28 December 2021.
- ^ Tom Nicholson (4 June 1998). "HZDS flag flies from Everest summit". spectator.sme.sk. Retrieved 28 December 2021.
- ^ "قیچیساز حماسه ساز شد/کوهنورد تبریزی به هشت هزاریها پیوست". yjc. 19 May 2017. Retrieved 19 May 2017.
- ^ "Ferran Latorre completa los catorce ochomiles en el Everest" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 27 May 2017. Archived from the original on 5 July 2017. Retrieved 27 May 2017.
- ^ "Cadiach, camino del campo 3 tras coronar el Broad Peak" (in Spanish). La Vanguardia. 27 July 2017. Retrieved 27 July 2017.
- ^ "김미곤 히말라야 14봉 등정 보고회 열려" (in Korean). Mountain Journal. 27 July 2018. Retrieved 26 November 2019.
- ^ "South Korean Climbs Nanga Parbat, Completes 8,000ers". Gripped. 12 July 2018. Retrieved 26 November 2019.
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- ^ Dream Wanderlust (24 May 2019). "Nirmal Purja summits 5th eight-thousander in 12 days, ends 1st phase of 'Project Possible'". Dreamwanderlust.com.com. Retrieved 26 May 2019.
- ^ "Reflections While Waiting for News from Shishapangma". Explorersweb.com. 29 October 2019. Retrieved 26 November 2019.
- ^ "Nepalese Climber Summits World's 14 Highest Peaks in 6 Months, Smashing Record". NPR.
- ^ Munir Ahmed (20 July 2021). "South Korean missing after fall while scaling Pakistani peak". Times Union. Archived from the original on 20 July 2021. Retrieved 20 July 2021.
- ^ "Fingerless Korean goes missing after achieving the feat of climbing all 14 Himalayan peaks". The Korea Times. 20 July 2021. Retrieved 20 July 2021.
- ^ Stefan Nestler (10 July 2019). "Kim Hong-bin: Without fingers on 13 eight-thousanders". Adventure Mountain. Retrieved 20 July 2021.
- ^ "Nima Gyalzen Sherpa becomes the 6th Nepali in the 14 Peaks club". everestchronicle.com. 11 August 2022. Archived from the original on 11 August 2022. Retrieved 18 August 2022.
- ^ "Nima Gyalzen completes 14 peaks as Grace Tseng, Kristin Harila scale G-I". thehimalayantimes.com. 11 August 2022. Retrieved 18 August 2022.
- ^ Benavides, Angela (26 April 2023). "Dong Hong Juan Climbs Shishapangma; May Be the First Woman to Summit all 14 8,000'ers » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ "China's Dong becomes first woman to conquer all 14 peaks above-8,000m". Chinadaily.com. 1 May 2023. Retrieved 4 June 2023.
- ^ "Kristin Harila scales Mount Shishapangma". everestchronicle.com. 26 April 2023. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
- ^ "Kristin Harila completes 14 peaks as she scales Cho Oyu". The Himalayan Times. 3 May 2023. Retrieved 3 May 2023.
- ^ "Sophie Lavaud, first French mountaineer to climb all the peaks over 8,000 m on the planet – Liberation". Time News. 26 June 2023. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ "Sophie Lavaud becomes first French person to climb world's highest peaks". RFI. 26 June 2023. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ a b Benavides, Angela (26 June 2023). "Nanga Parbat Summits » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ a b "A 17-year-old Nepali teenager scales the 'Killer Mountain'". Everest Chronicle. 26 June 2023. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
- ^ "Seven Summit Treks Tenjen Sherpa (Lama)". Archived from the original on 28 July 2023. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
- ^ Gopal Sharma (27 July 2023). "Norwegian woman, Nepali sherpa become world's fastest to climb all 14 tallest peaks". Reuters. Retrieved 28 July 2023.
- ^ a b Dream Wanderlust (30 March 2021). "After K2 in Winter, Gelje Sherpa (28) aims to become the youngest to climb all 14 8Ks". DreamWanderlust.com. Retrieved 2 November 2023.
- ^ "Gelje Sherpa joins the 14 peak club with summit on Cho Oyu; Nima Rinji sets youngest climber record". everestchronicle.com. 6 October 2023. Retrieved 24 October 2023.
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- ^ Stern, Jake (22 September 2023). "This Climber Just Became the Second American to climb Every 8,000 Meter Peak". Outside. Retrieved 20 March 2024.
- ^ "Camandona completa la collezione degli ottomila, "quasi un gioco" - Notizie - Ansa.it". Agenzia ANSA (in Italian). 30 July 2024. Retrieved 30 July 2024.
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- ^ Elizabeth Hawley (2014). "Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014" (PDF). The Himalayan Database. p. 274.
But a South Korean climber, who followed in their footprints on the crusted snow three days later [in 1997] in clearer weather, did not consider that they actually gained the top. While [Sergio] Martini and [Fausto] De Stefani indicated they were perhaps only a few meters below it, Park Young-Seok claimed that their footprints stopped well before the top, perhaps 30 meters below a small fore-summit and 150 vertical meters below the highest summit. Now in 2000 [Sergio] Martini was back again, and this time he definitely summited Lhotse.
- ^ AdventureStats.net, Official records. "Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers". Retrieved 30 November 2008.
- ^ Elizabeth Hawley (2014). "Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014" (PDF). The Himalayan Database. p. 347.
But his claim to have now climbed all 8000ers is open to question. In April 1990 he and others reached the summit plateau of Cho Oyu. It was misty so they could not see well; nine years later Hinkes said he had "wandered around for a while" in the summit area but could see very little and eventually descended to join the others, one of whom said they had not reached the top.
- ^ "Vladislav Terz". www.russianclimb.com. Retrieved 28 April 2016.
- ^ "AdventureStats – by Explorersweb". www.adventurestats.com. Retrieved 28 April 2016.
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- ^ a b "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record, Hawley to investigate". BBC News. 27 August 2010.
- ^ What would appear to be the most serious blow to Miss Oh, on 26 August this year the Korean Alpine Federation, the nation's largest climbing association, concluded that Miss Oh had not reached the top of Kangchenjunga."Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014" (PDF). Elizabeth Hawley. 2014. p. 394.
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- ^ I have summited Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season. Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest, not the summit because they know this is what will be asked."Cho Oyu summit: Where is it exactly". Explorersweb.com. September 2017.
- ^ Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they’ve reached the top, unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal."When is a summit not a summit?". Mark Horrell. 12 November 2014.
- ^ "Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit". American Alpine Journal. 1991.
- ^ Keeper of the Mountains: The Elizabeth Hawley Story. Rocky Mountain Books. 5 October 2012. pp. 185–195. ISBN 978-1927330159.
- ^ Richard Gray (23 August 2013). "The new peaks opened as alternatives to Mount Everest". The Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on 11 January 2022.
Nepal
- ^ a b c Navin Singh Khadka (18 October 2013). "Nepal mountain peak expansion bid stalls". BBC News.
- ^ a b "Do we really need more 8000m peaks". Mark Horrell. 23 October 2013.
The most prominent one, Broad Peak Central is just 196m high and the least prominent, Lhotse Middle, is a meagre 60m. To put this in context, the highest mountain in Malta is 253m, while the Eiffel Tower stands a whopping 300m.
- ^ "A funny name for a mountain". Mark Horrell. 4 June 2014.
- ^ "UIAA Mountain Classification: 4,000ERS OF THE ALPS". UIAA. March 1994. Archived from the original on 9 September 2020. Retrieved 23 November 2018.
Topographic criterium: for each summit, the level difference between it and the highest adjacent pass or notch should be at least 30 m (98 ft) (calculated as average of the summits at the limit of acceptability). An additional criterium can be the horizontal distance between a summit and the base of another adjacent 4000er.
- ^ Eberhard Jurgalski [in German]. "Subsidiary Peaks". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018.
There are several different subsidiary peaks! Here are the geographical facts, from the one "relative independent Main-Peak" (EU category B) over the important subsidiary peaks (C) to the major notable points (D1) Especially the last category is just guessed by contours or from photographs.
- ^ a b Eberhard Jurgalski [in German]. "Dominance". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018.
Accordingly, the author introduced altitude classes (AC) and a proportional prominence, which he named orometrical dominance (D). D is calculated easily but fittingly: (P/Alt) x 100. Thus, it indicates the percentage of independence for every elevation, no matter what the altitude, prominence or mountain type it is. From a scientific point of view, altitude could be seen as the thesis, prominence as the antithesis, whereas dominance would be the synthesis.
External links
[edit]- 8000ers.com, a site dedicated to statistics on 8000m peaks and climbs
- PeakBagger.com World 8000-meter Peaks, a database of global peaks
- The Himalayan Database, statistics on Nepalese Himalayan (but not Pakistan Himalaya) climbs from 1905 to 2018
- AdventureStats.com (High Altitude Mountaineering), a site dedicated to recording adventure statistics
- NASA Earth Observatory: The Eight-Thousanders